- Phillips/Cross-head screwdriver
- Silicone-based lubricant
The rotor, seals, and washer in your Rotor/Seal kit are housed inside the main valve head on your softener. This article will instruct you on taking the valve head apart and swapping out those internal parts.
1. Bypass the water softener by pushing the handle in on the back of your unit. This will stop water from coming in or out of the softener while you work:
2. Unplug your softener from the outlet.
3. Remove the top cover by unhooking the two clips in the back, holding the cover onto the tank below. Place the cover to the back or side of the unit, being careful not to disconnect any wires.
4. You will see that multiple wires run to the underside of the cover. Locate the red connector (with 5 wires). Unplug this red connector.
5. The thicker red and black wires connect to the Motor. Disconnect at the clear/white plastic connection. Set the top cover aside.
6. Locate the valve head. Remove the Screws, Motor, Motor Plate, Switch, and rotating Cam and Gear.
7. Remove the 6-8 screws that hold the Valve Cover onto Valve Body. Set the cover aside.
8. Now you can begin removing the internal components of the valve head. Feel free to reference the schematic below. You will be swapping out everything between the valve cover and valve body: O-rings, Wave Washer, Bearing, Rotor and Disc, Seals, Plug, and Spring.
8. Before installing any new parts, make sure to lubricate the new O-rings and seals with silicone grease to prevent drying/cracking.
9. Begin rebuilding your valve head with your new parts. Start from the bottom near the venturi seal and work upwards.
10. When you have finished reassembling the internal parts, place the Valve Cover back on and secure the 6-8 screws.
11. Place the rotating cam into the valve head. Notice the center hole of the cam will fit perfectly onto the gray rotor stem sticking up through the valve cover. Push the cam onto the rotor stem until it is snug.
12. Notice the different letters printed on top of the cam - these represent the different valve positions. You’ll want to spin the gear (will be hard to turn), so that the Service ‘S’ mark is showing through the peep hole in the motor plate once it is reattached.
13. Screw the motor plate and motor back onto the top. Reconnect the thick red and black motor wires to red/black wires coming from the control board.
14. Plug the red plastic connector (with 5 wires) back on the control board. The bottom of the red connector should be flush with the white plastic on the control board.
15. Replace the top cover and plug the power supply back into the outlet. You may hear the motor start to turn. After several seconds, it should click into its home position.
16. Take the system out of bypass and check for leaks over the next few hours.